Prepare to be dazzled—Marie Antoinette’s legendary jewels are on display at London’s V&A, and the story behind them is far more captivating (and controversial) than you might think. But here’s where it gets controversial: while history paints her as the central figure in the infamous Affair of the Necklace, the truth is far more nuanced—and this is the part most people miss. Let’s dive into the glittering world of royal opulence, scandal, and enduring legacy.
This season has been a treasure trove for royal jewelry enthusiasts, and the Marie Antoinette Style exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum stands out as a crown jewel. My friend Patricia Treble, the brilliant mind behind Write Royalty (https://writeroyalty.substack.com/), recently explored this exhibition alongside the Cartier showcase. Her insights offer a rare glimpse into the queen’s stylistic influence, which continues to shape decorative arts centuries after her death. The exhibition features not only pieces Marie Antoinette owned but also items from her contemporaries and works inspired by her iconic legacy.
Sarah Grant, the exhibition’s curator, captures the essence of Marie Antoinette’s allure: “Her name evokes both extravagance and unparalleled beauty. As the Austrian archduchess turned Queen of France, she left an indelible mark on European taste and fashion, creating a style that remains universally appealing.” Grant adds, “Each generation has reinterpreted Marie Antoinette’s story to suit its own narrative. The blend of glamour, spectacle, and tragedy she embodies remains as captivating today as it was in the 18th century.”
Thanks to Patricia’s generosity, we’re spotlighting some of the exhibition’s most stunning jewelry pieces—including the infamous necklace that allegedly contributed to Marie Antoinette’s downfall. But here’s the twist: the necklace on display at the V&A isn’t the original Böhmer et Bassange masterpiece commissioned by Louis XV in 1772. That one was dismantled long ago. Instead, visitors can admire a 1960 replica crafted by Albert Guerrin and Paulette Laubie, meticulously recreating the original’s design.
Marie Antoinette’s name is forever linked to the Affair of the Necklace, but her role was far less significant than folklore suggests. The scandal began when Louis XV died before the necklace’s completion, leaving the jewelers in financial ruin. They attempted to sell it to Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, but she refused it—twice. Enter a cunning courtier who convinced the jewelers that Marie Antoinette had secretly hired her to purchase the necklace. Was Marie Antoinette framed? Or was she a silent accomplice? The truth remains murky, but one thing is clear: the courtier made off with the jewels, which were later smuggled out of France and dismantled. Fragments of the necklace were reportedly sold in London, and the scandal tarnished Marie Antoinette’s reputation, fueling perceptions of her decadence.
Family tradition claims that some of the necklace’s diamonds found their way into the collection of the Dukes of Sutherland. This necklace, set with twenty diamonds (some allegedly from the original Böhmer et Bassange piece), was worn by Harriet, Duchess of Sutherland, as a bandeau-style tiara at Queen Victoria’s coronation. These diamonds graced numerous royal events before being accepted by the UK government in lieu of inheritance tax in 2022 and allocated to the V&A.
Another piece rumored to contain Böhmer et Bassange diamonds is a stunning diamond négligé, designed to drape around the neck like a luxurious scarf. This necklace, once owned by the Marquesses of Anglesey, appeared at several British royal coronations. In 2024, it sold at Sotheby’s Geneva for $4.8 million and is now part of The ILLUMINATA Collection, loaned to the V&A for this exhibition.
While Marie Antoinette may not have been directly involved in the Affair of the Necklace, her personal jewelry collection was nothing short of extraordinary. Two of her pieces are featured in the exhibition: a diamond and pearl drop pendant and a diamond bow brooch, both inherited by her daughter and passed to the Bourbon-Parma family.
The diamond bow brooch, crafted in France after Marie Antoinette’s marriage to Louis XVI, was smuggled out of the country during the revolution and later given to her daughter, Madame Royale. After Madame Royale’s death in 1851, the brooch was inherited by her niece, the Duchess of Parma, and nephew, the Count of Chambord. A yellow diamond pendant was added during their ownership, and the piece sold for over $2 million at Sotheby’s in 2018. It now resides in a private collection.
The diamond and pearl pendant, another of Marie Antoinette’s treasures, followed a similar journey. Hidden in Belgium during the revolution, it was later presented to Madame Royale in Vienna and eventually bequeathed to the Bourbon-Parmas. In 2018, billionaire Heidi Horten purchased it for over $36 million. Though Horten has since passed away, the pendant remains part of the museum she founded in Austria, which has loaned it to the V&A.
I’m immensely grateful to Patricia for sharing her insights into Marie Antoinette Style. While I’ve already booked my flight for next year’s Elizabeth II fashion exhibition, I’ll sadly miss this one! If you haven’t subscribed to Patricia’s Write Royalty newsletter (https://writeroyalty.substack.com/), you’re missing out on a treasure trove of royal history.
For those fortunate enough to visit, the exhibition runs through March 2026 at the V&A (tickets available at https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/marie-antoinette). And don’t forget to explore my earlier piece on Hidden Gems (https://courtjeweller.substack.com/p/a-glimpse-of-the-glittering-diamonds) for more behind-the-scenes stories on these dazzling jewels.
Now, over to you: Do you think Marie Antoinette was unfairly vilified in the Affair of the Necklace? Or was there more to her story than history has revealed? Share your thoughts in the comments—let’s keep the conversation sparkling!
